Par Margaret Kemp
Daniel Rose launched his 16-seater restaurant Spring in 2006. From day one it was a success, due to fabulous food, amazing response from the French press, a Bib Gourmand from Michelin and, the ultimate accolade, the Michelin man returning for dinner on his night off! Rose's unique approach, using seasonal produce and cooking for small groups was the key to his success.
" Love what you're doing", is the best advise I had from my master in Brittany, Jean-Luc l'Hourre at Auberge des Abers. Chicago born Rose, gave up architectural and philosophy studies to learn his culinary craft, spent a year in Lyon at Institut Paul Bocuse, travelled the world and returned to " take Paris"
To-day the Spring formula, rue d'Auvergne, has evolved as Table 28, Rotisserie and Vins to eat there or order to take away. The new Spring restaurant and wine bar opens March 21st, "the first day of Spring, when love is in the air".
And now for something completely different. Spring, Epicerie and Cave des Vins, just across from the soon- to-open restaurant, launched to celebrate Le Beaujolais Nouveau. " It's me playing store-keeper just as I did when I was small with my lemonade stall, it's such fun", he grins. Not hard to guess Rose is a Gemini - forever young.
It's early Saturday afternoon and Rose (wearing traditional blue over-alls) and his partner Marie-Aude are welcoming folk who've popped in to taste the house special, " boudin blanc", topped with sweet onion chutney and organic mache, served on a soft baguette from the boulangerie next to Table 28 (5€). And to go with Daniel's designer hot-dog, choose from 70 wines and champagnes on the well stocked shelves. "If you like something that's not open, we'll open it", says Daniel. "We're doing lots of magnums for Christmas, and we'll deliver if you want".
I drizzled my " couture hot-dog" with a little lemon flavoured Sicilian Olive oil, which you can buy on tap in re-usable bottles. There's also packets of dried mint (making the whole space fragrant) from Milly-le-Foret, and Daniel's addiction, "Fleurs d'Oranger", to use in everything from infusions to pastry-making. Cidre Fermier, Remi Vanbremeersch's Miel de Paris, organic chocolates, lentils, haricot de Soissons, and lots more goodies arriving daily including Japanese whiskies, "I have to be careful not to taste too much", grins Daniel. As I leave he's advising a regular customer on, " something light for dinner to-night". La vie est belle pour Daniel Rose.
Spring - Epicerie, Cave,
52 rue de l'Arbre Sec, 1st
T: 01 58 62 44 30
Open Tues-Sat 10.30hrs-21hrs
New Spring Restaurant
6 rue Bailleul, (from March 21st)
T: 01 45 96 05 72
Table 28, Rotisserie & Vins
28 rue de la Tour d'Auvergne, 9th,
T: 06 42 87 79 64
Open Wednesday & Sunday (soir),
Entree Plat Dessert à partager 29€